July 6, 2007
We have been back from Sicily for a month and it has taken me a while to get this list up. I wanted to highlight some of the top food experiences we had in Sicily... and there were a bunch of really good places that did not make it onto the list. This vacation was notable for the sheer number of good meals that we ate and the small number of times we walked away from the table disappointed. I swear I gained ten pounds. Our list follows our itinerary, which started in Palermo and went around the island counter-clockwise with stops in Erice, Trapani, Agrigento, Piazza Armenina, Modica, Syracuse, Taormina and Cefalu.
1. Mazzara, Palermo, Corner of Via Magliocco and Via Vaglica (behind the Rinascente department store)
While Italy is known for its gelati, Sicilians (and particularly Palermitans) enjoy it a little differently . They often order it scooped into a fresh brioche rather than in a cone--and it is easily the most enjoyable way to ice cream ever. Finding a good gelateria is complicated because you have to check out the quality of the brioche, as well as the gelati on offer. Mazarra was the first place we ate in Palermo. We ended up getting gelati there four times in three days (which isn't to say we didn't try the other places!) and it was hands down the best we tasted while in Sicily. The Sapori di Sicilia -- field berries and amaretto-- was incredible as was the straciatella (pictured). An honourable gelati mention goes to Cafe Mocambo in Taormina which served up a delightful Bacci gelati, although their brioche looked so abysmal I could not bring myself to eat one.
2. Basile, Palermo, 76 Via Bara Al'Olivella (near Teatro Massimo)
We had our first lunch in Sicily at this popular lunchtime cafeteria. You have to go to the back and order directly from the cook and then pay at the cash. Everyday this restaurant serves a variety of simple pasta dishes at unbeatable prices and a few more substantial items such as delicious grilled salsicia as well. The pasta Trapanese with ground almonds, basil and tomato is highly recommended and your wallet will only be a couple euros lighter.
3. Osteria dei Vespri, Palermo, 6 Piazza Croce dei Vespri (Kalsa)
A polished restaurant in the rough Kalsa district, we ended up here for lunch and tried high end versions of Sicilian classics such as bucatini con le sarde (with sardines and fennel) and anneleti with octopus cooked in Nero d'Avola (pictured). The rabbit roulade was excellent and the service gracious and friendly.
4. Ristorante Italia, Palermo, 86 Via Orologio (near Teatro Massimo)
At a local institution that has been opened since the late '40s, we ate the best pizza we had in Sicily at bargain basement prices. The JJ had tomato, basil and mozzarella du bufala topped with prosciutto crudo on its way out the oven and this has officially been declared the best pizza of all time. A very affordable wine list and an outdoor table on this very active little street made for a great evening meal.
5. Antica Foccaceria di San Fransesco, Palermo, 64 Via Alessandro Paternostro (across from Fransico d'Assisi church)
Once of the city's oldest restaurants (it has been open since 1834), located in the warrens of the Kalsa, it has even hosted Sicily's first parliament. You can get a lot of Palermitan street food including pannele (chickpea fritters), various involtini (eggplant or sardines rolled and stuffed with bread crumbs), caponata and a delicious sandwich (pictured) made out of stewed veal innards, with ricotta and parmesan on a hamburger-type bun. Cheap, cheap authentic eats.
6. Mercato della Vucciria , Palermo
Known as the traditional Palermitan food market , the Vucciria is foodie heaven with 500 lb. tuna being butchered, huge swordfish on display, a cornucopia of fresh vegetables, sardines being salted and tinned, bottarga salesmen, butchers and everything in between. Within five minutes we were accosted and made to eat a boiled baby squid, fresh out the water, quartered and topped with lemon juice and a huge plate of lumache (snails) steamed in white wine with garlic, hot pepper and parsley. A fantastic convergence of sights, sounds, smells and flavours.
7. Acanto Blu, Palermo, 10 Via Torrearsa
A wine bar located in the fashionable district of Palermo north of Via Cavour (near the Berlin bar where at 7pm the crowd of healthy looking Italian gents and ladies spill out into the streets, drinks in hand), the Acanto has an immense garden terrace out back. We sat and drank glass after glass of terrific local white wines and helped ourselves to the immense selection of bar antipasti. Great pasta and amazing desserts.
8. Monte San Giuliano, Erice, 7 Vicollo San Rocca
On a trip in which an inordinate amount of pasta was consumed, this restaurant stands out as having served the best pasta we ate in Sicily. It was so good that I ordered a primi and another pasta dish as my secondi . The Cassarecce Garibaldina (pictured) incorporates eggplant, tomatoes, ricotta and fried breadcrumbs and the Crospelle with ricotta and spinach was equally delicious. Erice is a special place and this was a special restaurant.
9. Ai Lumi B&B, Trapani, 71 Corso Vittorio Emmanuele
We ate a lot of breakfasts on this trip that were good, but not great. This B&B (where we were silly enough not to stay) put out the best breakfast spread with fantastic prosciutto and cheeses, apricot tart, croissant and terrific coffee.
10. Cafe des Amis, Piazza Armerina, 22 Via Marconi
The owner of this cafe in the heart of Armenina is run by signor Orazio who had a cafe in Metz, France for many years. But don't be fooled by the name, this is all Sicilian. Excellent arancina and sandwiches and fantastic little canolo. As we ate on this Sunday afternoon, people from the village kept coming in to order pastry. By the time we left, he was almost cleaned out.
11. Il Barocco, Ragusa Ibla, 29 Via Orfanotrofio
Ragusa stands out as a culinary destination in Sicily for focusing on game rather than fish and seafood. The best restaurant in Sicily, Duomo, is located here, but as it was closed we went to this highly recommended joint in the old town. The ricotta stuffed raviola with tomato sauce and homemade sausage (pictured) were exceptional as was the mixed grill.
12. Caffe Sicilia, Noto, 125 Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II
We didn't spend much time in Noto but stopped by this deservedly famous cafe on the main street in Old Noto for an espresso and a pastry. Delightful pastries and the nicest bathroom in Sicily. This was probably the best cafe we visited on our trip.
13. Peccati di Gola, Syracuse, 20 Via Landolina
Roaming around Ortygia looking for street food to eat at lunch, we came across this non-descript lunch counter near the Piazza del Duomo. Amazing potato and cheese sfoglie, spinach arancina and delicious square slices of Lazio style pizza meant we came back a couple more times.
14. Osteria Vite e Vitello, Syracuse, 1 Piazza Fransesco Corpaci
In Syracuse there are a lot of tourist traps. This restaurant was not listed in any giudebook but had the Slow Food stamp of approval. Boy did we luck out! The arancina royale served on a bed of spicy tomato sauce was huge while I had excellent cassarace with lunache (snails). Also served us the best fried potatoes we had in Sicily. The JJ swears this is the best meal we had.
15. Al Duomo, Taormina, 11 Vico Ebrei
Reputed to be one of the top restaurants in this swanky resort village, make sure to reserve in advance. Excellent pasta a la norma, pasta con le sarde (pictured), fried fish, frutta and canolo on a nice terrace overlooking the Piazza del Duomo. Everything here is top notch.
