SubscribeIt is a mystery to me why a cuisine that is not terribly complicated in technical terms and essentially relies on quality seasonal ingredients is not better represented on the Montreal restaurant scene. Really strong Italian restaurants all charge an arm and a leg (and a great number with middling food (hello Latini!) and poor service (hello Primo & Secondo!) do the same). While you can get solid but unsophisticated “red sauce” Italian-American fare at decent prices, authentic Italian food at decent prices is just not on. The predominant trend is northern Italian with a number of restaurants also offering a “pan-Italian” menu that brings together dishes from a number of regional traditions. Restaurants geared towards regional cuisine have recently made some inroads and there have also been a few notable excursions into modern Italian cuisine, the most successful of which are noted below.
IL MULINO
There are a few good options for high end classic Italian in Montreal, but most are not consistent enough in terms of food or service to receive a wholehearted recommendation. Il Mulino offers consistently good largely northern Italian, cuisine and some of the best ,most generous service in the city. Located in a tiny but cozy little space tucked away off the strip in Little Italy, walking into Il Mulino is like taking a step back in time. The service is gracious, the wine list extensive, there is a real passion for food and dishes like roasted baby goat keeps a mix of Italian nonnas and high powered businessmen coming back.
BLOG REVIEWS
November 17, 2007:
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2007/11/21/il-mulino.html
CONTACT
236 St-Zotique E.
514.273.5776
BRONTË
The modern décor should tip you off that this isn’t your traditional Italian restaurant. In fact, the menu, with its tilt towards the local, and seasonal and towards a lot of ingredients you never saw in an Italian kitchen doesn’t really look Italian at all. But taste dishes such as braised rabbit and porcini pappardelle and you’ll see where the roots of this kitchen really lie. The approach is modern, plate presentations are lovely and the food is often spectacular. Although experimentation does tend to produce the odd dud and service can be trying, on most nights Brontë can hold its own with the best of them.
BLOG REVIEWS
November 15, 2007:
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2007/11/19/bronte.html
CONTACT
1800 Sherbrooke W.
514.934.1801
GRAZIELLA
The northern Italian menu, from handmade pasta to simple yet artfully prepared desserts, tastes rustic and authentic but the technique is flawless and the plating and attention to detail are very modern. Portion sizes are also far from rustic or authentic and the service has been reputed to have trouble spots, but these lovingly created, classic dishes really work for me. In contrast to the very traditional food, the setting is modern, airy, light and welcoming. Combine the two and you have a very pleasant dining experience. Graziella is quickly becoming my “go-to” restaurant for high end Italian.
BLOG REVIEWS
February 4, 2008:
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2008/2/10/graziella.html
CONTACT
116 McGill
514.876.0116
BOTTEGA
Bottega used to be a regular on my dining card, but I have to admit that it doesn’t qualify as a value. On a good night Bottega is as good as it gets for Neapolitan style pizza in Montreal but it may not deliver the goods on a regular basis as well as it once did. Still, it is miles ahead of most of its competitors in terms of pizza and the sfizi starters like baccio, arancina and lamb chops scottadito are the simple, product forward dishes that exemplify Italian cuisine.
BLOG REVIEWS
May 11, 2007
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2007/5/12/bottega.html
CONTACT
65 St-Zotique E.
514.277.8104
