With French cuisine being such a huge influence in Montreal and having set the table, so to speak, for an emerging French Canadian cuisine ( not to mention its influence on much of the local North American fare), it is not surprising that the line between what is French and what is not tends to blur. Although there are no tried and true divisions, I classify French restaurants as those with a declared regional focus or a predominantly classic bistro menu. Classic French cuisine is all but dead in Montreal as it is in most places outside of France. Montreal probably offers some of the best-bang-for-the-buck French dining experiences in the developed world with skilled chefs and high quality ingredients (Quebec is the foie gras factory of North America) close at hand.
EUROPEA
The centerpiece of the burgeoning Jerome Ferrer restaurant empire, Europea has expanded out of its basement suite into a modern yet comfortable three story affair that promises to live up to the reputation the restaurant has already earned. The food is French modern with an accent on local products and a nouvelle cuisine-like approach to presentation. But look past the artfully arranged plates and you can’t fail to see the steely backbone of classicism. A meal at Europea always includes some complimentary amuses-bouche or mignardise to show off the skill of the kitchen and supplement what is almost inevitably a well-conceived, well-executed and delicious meal. In the evening, the tasting menu is a must for first timers.
BLOG REVIEWS
August 6, 2008
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2008/8/9/europea.html
CONTACT
1227 De La Montagne
514.398.9229
LALOUX
Laloux is a classic that seems to be able to continually renew itself even as it has worked through a veritable revolving door of high profile chefs. With Marc-Andre Jette and (presumably) with his successor Eric Gonzalez, the food has moved from the more classically French into a more modern realm and the menu reflects more diverse influences than previously. The decor, warm cream colored walls offset by tall windows, vintage black chairs and crisp white tablecloths, is the very essence of the serious and classy French restaurant. Excellent service generally and some of the most attentive wine service in the city.
BLOG REVIEWS
August 31, 2007
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2007/9/4/laloux.html
CONTACT
Laloux
250 Des Pins E.
514.287.9127
http://www.laloux.com
M SUR MASSON
Reservations are a must and intimate conversation is not on the menu at this tiny restaurant in the backwoods of Rosemont that dishes up superlative French bistro-influenced fare. The decor in the two long and skinny storefronts that make up M sur Masson harkens back to the 1920s with tin ceilings, molded plaster fixtures and black and white photos. Cooking out of a kitchen that wouldn’t hold many a modern woman’s shoe collection, M sur Masson produces generous dishes like salade Lyonnaise, steak frites and duck confit that would make many a more well-appointed kitchen blush. Service is friendly and the atmosphere is loud but warm. For my money, one of the better French experiences in the city, both for the food and the atmosphere, M sur Masson is also open for a worth-the-trip brunch on weekends.
BLOG REVIEWS
March 7, 2008
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2008/3/8/m-sur-masson.html
CONTACT
2876 Masson
514.678.2999
LE MARGAUX
It’s a little rough around the edges, the back of the dining room is downright gloomy and the staff can be downright rude. So why is Le Margaux on this list? It’s the straightforward bistro menu which may showcase one of the best values for French food in the city. Le Margaux goes long on southwestern favourites like duck or cassoulet paired with a list of affordable and enjoyable wines. While dishes tend to be traditional and unfussy, the foie gras and apple stuffed trout shows what the kitchen can do when it lets its hair down. There are French restaurants where you can get a better meal, but you would be hard pressed to get one at these prices.
BLOG REVIEWS
None
CONTACT
5058 Parc
514.448.1598
LEMÉAC
The clean, modern design of Leméac, featuring large windows, high ceilings, dark wood and river stones, hides the heart of a traditional French bistro. In fact, Leméac is, in my opinion, the top French-style bistro in the city serving perhaps the best veal liver, steak frites or boudin noir that money can buy in Montreal. It is deservedly famousfor its $22 two-course menu served after 10pm but go earlier and you will unearth a few more ambitious gems (like roasted black cod with fennel) that do not feature on the late night menu. Desserts are also very strong at Lémeac including an addictive pain perdu, delicate lemon tart and massive plate of mignardises. Leméac is open for brunch on the weekend and the blini with poached egg, smoked salmon and Spanish caviar make it well worth the stop.
BLOG REVIEWS
July 13, 2007
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2007/7/18/lemeac.html
CONTACT
1045 Laurier W.
514.270.0999
NIZZA
An open, airy space, Nizza has a refined-relaxed atmosphere that mixes hardwood, rattan chairs and kitschy colorful lamps. Staking its claim as a “restaurant Niçois” the food is more Provencal than Niçois focusing on fish and the use of the produce that characterize that culinary tradition. Try the grilled fish, socca or Niçoise salad or, if you’re more adventurous, the pieds et paquets, a delightful Marseillais specialty of tripe stuffed with ground pork and stewed with a pig’s foot. In the summertime, the terrace is a nice breezy spot for a late night meal.
BLOG REVIEWS
March 3, 2008
http://www.montrealfoodie.com/reviews-and-opinion/2008/3/6/nizza.html
CONTACT
1121 Anderson
514.861.7076

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