October 2008

New York. Tantalizingly close to Montreal yet far enough away that it takes a little bit of planning to go. If you’re looking to expand your culinary horizons–New York is still your best bet. Just hop in the car before the sun comes up and drive like mad to make it to town for lunch.

Gramercy Tavern (October 2008)

Getting into town in the early afternoon, were able to sneak in a late lunch in the bar at Gramercy Tavern. It turns out to be one of the meals of the trip. A beautiful deconstructed mushroom lasagna in a hearty brown sauce  with pecorino and topped with crisp fried garlic is addictive. The stuffed meatball served on a bed of zucchini, squash eggplant is a bit of an acquired taste, but a complimentary baked sturgeon fillet with beurre blanc served with a tumble of brussel sprouts, little breadcrumbs and crispy fried potatoes is one of the highlights of the trip. Wines by the glass are impressive including a New York Paumanok  merlot 2002 and a 2005  Mas de Cynanque St-Chinian. Chocolate pudding with salted caramel brioche croutons served as dessert is divine. The one restaurant I visited this weekend that I will come back to on my next visit.

VERDICT: Not to be missed.

Mushroom Lasagna at Gramercy Tavern

Mushroom Lasagna at Gramercy Tavern

Café Boulud (October 2008)

I probably should have known that eating on the Upper East Side would be like dinner in Westmount. An older sport jacket and country club crowd made us stick out like a sore thumb. The food was good but not great. The service was just not great. Wild mushroom risotto, a salade Lyonnaise and beef cheek ravioli are all good enough but not good enough considering the price. If you want to experience a little of the Daniel Boulud magic it would probably be better to go upmarket and eat at Daniel or downmarket and have a little fun at DB Bistro Moderne.

VERDICT: A clear pass. Least impressive meal of the weekend and worst value as well.

Gray’s Papaya (October 2008)

Celebrated hot dog counter offering fried all beef hot dogs and a variety of non-alcoholic fruit drinks including coconut champagne, banana daiquiri and (you guessed it) papaya. Two dogs and a drink will only set you back $4.45. The place is loud and colorful and the staff banter entertaining but the hot dogs are too salty and a notch above average at best. Don’t tell the New Yorkers though. They think they have the best of everything.

VERDICT: Why not try them once? At $4.45 you can make up your own mind.

Gray's Papaya. Really the best?

Gray's Papaya. Really the best?

Magnolia Bakery (October 2008)

Another place that had to be visited for its now legendary status. A highly regimented store that seems to have been designed by the Germans but run by the staff from Burger King (no grandmas behind the counter here). I like the cupcakes but they won’t be blowing anybody away. The banana pudding, as rumour has it, is really, really good.

VERDICT: Again, why not give it a shot. Don’t forget that banana pudding.

Magnolia, the legend, the cupcake, the custom box

Magnolia, the legend, the cupcake, the custom box

Babbo (October 2008)

This was the hardest I have ever had to fight to get a reservation in my life (if you don’t count Il Bulli–but they’re in a league of their own). I spent the better part of a month trying to get a table (a big thanks to Dan Nathan for the hook up) so they could probably have served me dog food and I still would have been happy. Thankfully they didn’t. A salad boasting thin slices of warm lamb’s tongue with aragula, a little sundried tomato and a poached egg was a great starter. Lamb’s brain francobolli with lemon and sage were a bit flat but the beef cheek ravioli with squab liver and black truffle hit the spot, as do mint love letters stuffed with peas and pecorino and served in a spicy lamb sausage and tomato sauce. Despite stuffing myself with pasta, I was still able to take a little bite of barbecued squab and it was divine.

VERDICT: Not mind blowing but a very high standard nonetheless. To be honest, I was very happy that I finally ate here.

Aquavit (October 2008)

Ahh the diversity of New York. Swedish brunch anyone? Or should I say smorgasbord. Ethiopian-born Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson offers it up in the lounge of tony Aquavit on the weekend. Think pickled herring prepared in any number of ways, including with curry, green apples and wine, salmon poached, cold smoked and hot smoked, sharp cheeses with crispbread, hot potatoes, Swedish meatballs and the like –all of it washed down with Carlsberg and Bloody Marys. Maybe the next best thing to visiting Sweden in person.

VERDICT: Oddly satisfying but I found myself unable to eat for the rest of the day. I think I would have been a little happier experiencing the regular Aquavit menu and not feeling like a python.

Momofuku Noodle Bar (October 2008)

I had been planning to come to this pan-Asian joint for a couple of years. Steamed mantou buns with braised pork belly, pickled cucumber, scallion and hoisin sauce were as food as advertised. A braised kimchi stew featuring slices of rice cake, shredded pork and turnips was addictive and a simple dish of ginger scallion dressed noodles with seasonal vegetables was a crowd pleaser as well. This was the other highlight meal of the trip. But who charges $11 for a bottle of San Miguel? You can get a keg of it for that price in the Phillipines.

VERDICT:Not to be missed (or try Ko or Ssam, David Chang’s newer)

Pork Belly Steamed Buns at Momofuku

Pork Belly Steamed Buns at Momofuku