May 6, 2007
I am a burger man. There seems to be a conception that anyone who like burgers and fries is an uncouth lout who would ask the waiter in a proper restaurant to have his steak tartare well done (if only he was able to put something on other than track pants long enough to get into a proper restaurant). But there is something irresistible about a burger that even the most devout proponent of haute cuisine should not sniff at. I try to eat at least one per week (and in fact ate quite an average burger at Dillalo Burger on Notre-Dame this afternoon).
While a lot of fooderati will tell you that there is no great burger to be had in Montreal (and in this they may be right, especially if you consider that the hamburger is a much more serious affair south of the 49th parallel than here in Canada), there are still a few places that shine a little brighter than the rest. Here are a few of my favourites.
La Paryse
302 Ontario E.
514.842.2040
Whether deservedly or not, La Paryse is generally considered the top hamburger joint in the city. This bright and cozy little restaurant just off St-Denis on Ontario Street has been serving up hamburgers since 1990. You may have to wait in line at peak periods and you may be squeezed into a little table in a corner of one of the joined rooms that make up the restaurant, but you will be served a picture perfect hamburger along with an order of perfect golden fries. La Paryse offers the usual classic variations on the hamburger as well as a couple of different toppings such as raw mushrooms and cream cheese. While I like their burgers, I think they look better than they taste. It's elusive...but they just don't make my stomach sing like I expect them to.
L'Anecdote
801 Rachel E.
514.526.7967
Another Montreal institution with its share of fans is L'Anecdote, a throwback 50s-style diner with banquettes and a jukebox that oozes character and pumps out extravagant burgers made with bison, deer and lamb. For my money, their classic cheeseburger more than does the trick. Not too dry. Not too sloppy. Not too big. This old school burger is just right.
Mr. Steer
1198 St. Catherine W.
514.866.3233
Famous for having won the Montreal Gazette's "best burger in Montreal" contest a few years back, Mr. Steer serves a mind numbing variety of little meatball-like hamburgers with their signature curly fries. One of the few burger joints in Montreal that asks how you like your meat cooked, Mr. Steer has that midwestern diner look and feel. Ask them for no more than medium-rare or you may be eating something the size and consistency of a pool ball. Although the little 'fists of meat' patties do not make for my ideal burger, Mr. Steer's offering can be very tasty when done right. Bonus points for being the only restaurant to serve that nasty orange 'French' salad dressing.
Dic Ann's
1345 Curé Labelle Blvd., Laval
(plus 9 other locations)
www.dicanns.com
Dic Ann's is a Montreal-based franchise that has been making burgers and a solid poutine since 1954. I try to go to the location on Cure Labelle in Laval whenever I go to Depres-Laporte to pick up anything for the kitchen. These tiny burgers (the bun and meat are both ridiculously thin) are covered in a spicy ground beef based sauce and need to be ordered at least two at a time. While a number of Montrealers swear by these, they don't qualify as real hamburgers to me. I have read them described as a "grilled sloppy joe", which I think is an apt description. Still, this is a unique experience you should try at least once.
Place Milton
220 Milton W.
514.285.0011
Although the breakfast is nothing to write home about, this legendary McGill Ghetto greasy spoon serves up a mean hamburger and fries special at lunch on weekdays for a great price. It seems only McGill kids know about this, but why shouldn't people with jobs be able to enjoy them too? Place Milton also gets points for having some of the friendliest wait staff around.
Deli Joe
7143 St. Dominique
514.342.4563
Another breakfast joint that cooks up a great burger before closing up shop in the early afternoon is Deli Joe near the Jean Talon market. The secret to these huge hamburgers are the patties which are incredibly succulent. True story: I make it a point to eat one of these every time I have a vacation as they are also only available during the week.
For the record, my favorite hamburger of all time comes from Peter's in Calgary, Alberta and my favourite mass produced burgers come from A&W.