It had been a very, very long time since my last meal at Club Chasse et Peche. Too long. And those light summer lunches at the Chateau Ramezay don’t count. I think highly of CCP, but I’m not in love with it. Not so the JJ, who eats here semi-regularly and insisted on it this night. Service was disorganized–definitely not up to CCP’s normal standards, but still better than most places. Lots of staff standing around with smiles but not a lot getting done, as if the United Nations had  been put in charge of front of house. We were sat in the less nice ”grotto” to the side of the main dining room which still kind of feels like a Restaurant Makeover version of the Regal Beagle (see Three’s Company, circa 1981).  This disappointed me until I spied someone in the main room with a baby, a pram and God knows what else at which point I was just thankful for the distance. I don’t know who you people are who think that bringing a shrieking infant to a fine dining restaurant is OK, but I am pretty certain there is a special place in hell for you.

Appetizers are tiny but the sweetbread punches above its weight. Crispy deep fried perfection, this was one of the best fried sweetbreads I have had in long time, served with sauteed mushroom, slivers of crispy serrano ham and macadamia nuts on a chickpea base. The combination of nuts, the puree and sweetbread yield a very interesting “fat-on-fat” texture and mouthfeel, which is quite pleasant and contrasted by the mushroom. A subtle and complex dish. The JJ’s unilateral seared scallops were accompanied  by too little fennel puree and lemon confit. Sadly, the beautiful color was likely obtained by searing them in a little sugar, but a little sugar was a little too much and the result tasted a bit like a shellfish lollipop. Pretty, but not tasty.

Of the many things to like about CCP’s short but sweet menu, the rotating surf and turf and the hot and hearty meal specials have to rate quite highly. A surf and turf of Wagyu two ways with butter poached lobster seemed a little too mainstream, but the hot and hearty veal loin with a “risotto-style” orzo spiked with sundried tomatoes and pungent cheese seemed a little more adventurous. It turned out to be a good dish if not particularly complex. The loin was unevenly cooked and unevenly seasoned with some  parts more raw than rare. The orzo was less rissoto-like than our waitress had implied–more like a magnificent version of mac & cheese–and very tasty. Suckling pig two ways was much more impressive from a technical perspective. Smoked loin ground with mozzarella di bufala and rolled in a jade green Savoy cabbage leaf was intensely smoky and addictive, but it was the other preparation that impressed the most. A perfectly executed roulade combined the right amounts of fat and meat around a perfectly crackling skin wrapper. Served with served with an intense eggplant puree, this dish would not have been out of place in a Michelin two-star. Very impressive.

Desserts continued in the same impressive vein. Pumpkin pie with creme fraiche and pecans is highlighted by sweet and salty beet, squash and apple chips and the lightness of the churros have to be experienced to be believed.  This meal has definitely reaffirmed to me CCP’s position as one of Montreal’s three most impressive kitchens. From a technical and conceptual perspective, this was a very impressive meal. I have to get back here more often.

Club Chasse et Peche
423 St Claude
514.861.1112
http://www.leclubchasseetpeche.com/

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