SubscribeLUNCH June 18, 2008
DNA was recommended to me by an alert reader as another Old Montreal option with a decent three course lunch set menu for $25ish. DNA, of course, used to be California Dreams, a restaurant that will only be missed for the cruel hilarity of a visit there. When I ate at California Dreams we had to dodge police officers and a disgruntled ex-employee at the front door and were given expensive mixed drinks that we had not ordered while enduring the cheerful mania of an owner overseeing the death throes of her restaurant. The highlight of the night was a waiter tripping while bringing a platter of food up the stairs and the amazing crash of the dishes on the hardwood floor that reverberated through the restaurant (because it was basically empty).
Although California Dreams was clearly doomed, I always thought the location and the space were quite nice. And the space has certainly undergone quite the renovation as the classic Old Montreal charm of the dining room has been layered with a shiny elevated platform, futuristic light fixtures, plexiglass and stainless steel trim and black leather banquettes and chairs stolen from the set of Battlestar Galactica. The look is different (for Montreal) but I can’t decide whether its refreshing or just not unpleasant. The overhaul of the dining room is matched by that of the lounge which features such a profusion of orange you would think it had been invaded by Holland. I was afraid to go inside lest I be accosted by a beer swilling, Dutch-jabbering football hooligan but, given the serene vibe of DNA, this is probably a most unlikely thing to happen.
Former colleague Slacques and I both elect to try the set menu along with wine pairings (an additional $14) . We start with lamb tartare, a spicy affair with almonds, mint and pecorino served with an equally spicy herb and onion slathered crostini. Although I realize that I am starting to sound like a tartare wimp with my continual complaints about overseasoned tartare, this one was exceptionally spicy. I don’t mind the heat, but I would rather taste the meat. Otherwise, I liked the crostini which added more depth of flavour one usually gets in a tartare and loved the plate presentation, a particular skill of chef Derek Dammann that would impress us throughout the meal. I balked a bit when our waiter suggested pairing the tartare with a sauvignon blanc (Churton Marlborough ) but the acidity of the wine was a pleasant counterpoint to the spiciness of the lamb.
A dish described as red wine lamb sausage with Village Bay oysters, a poached egg and remoulade grabs my attention. I tend to love odd plates that blend surf and turf in new ways, but this one falls flat for me. It turns out to be sausages served beside a poached egg and a very creamy remoulade with three oysters on a separate plate. I don’t think this can be referred to as deconstructed as it is unclear what it would like look constructed. The egg was undercooked featuring a lot of goopy albumen sloshing around in the plate with the remoulade and, while the sausages were tasty, the sheer effort of combining the elements on the two plates made me weary. Honestly, one of the least enjoyable dishes I have eaten in a while.
Slacques fares much better ordering braised beef, which turns out to be quite the generous portion. But despite its size, the cut is quite chewy for a braised dish and not completely satisfying. Desserts are also a little more uplifting than my main. A creme fraiche panna cotta features just enough tang and a beautiful texture and is topped with a rhubard and mint marmelade that provides a delicate contrast of sweetness and acidity. A high point to end the meal.
I suspect I just got a dud plate and, had I picked something else off the menu, I would have enjoyed the restaurant a lot more. The fact that none of the dishes really shined may be an unfortunate coincidence or it may be a body of evidence. In any event, they say you don’t get a second chance to make a first impression. I wouldn’t resist a return visit but, in this case, there may not be any chance at all to make a second one.
Cost: $110 with tip for two three course lunches with wine pairing and coffee.
DNA
355 Marguerite D’Youville
514.287.3362
www.dnarestaurant.com (not operational as of posting date)
