SubscribeDINNER February 29, 2008
It’s not easy to decide where to eat during the Montreal Highlights festival. But the combination of Jamie Kennedy and Jolifou is hard to resist. Jolifou, as my faithful hordes of readers will already know, easily makes my top ten list of restaurant experiences in the city. And Jamie Kennedy is the man who convinced me that it was possible to get a good meal in our nation’s capital (Toronto) without selling a kidney. Five years ago a friend took me to Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, his eponymous restaurant specializing in bistro style market cuisine, and it still stands out as one of my better dining experiences in the city that never wakes.
The first course, a tasting of little hors d’oeuvres was very much in the spirit of Chef Kennedy’s wine bar, showcasing Ontario products including some that were off the beaten track . These included prosciutto from Mario Pingue, a Niagara producer, wrapped on grissini, a square of light fresh sheep’s milk cheese in sariette (summer savory) infused oil, thin slices of smoked duck breast wrapped around pickled wild leeks, smoked Lake Huron white fish and pickerel gravlax each served with thinly sliced red onion and a tangy creme fraiche on crostini, a jardiniere of pickled vegetables and a little chicken liver pate on oat toast. The plate of little bites was paired with a sparkling Henry of Pelham Cuvée Brut Rosé one of many Niagara Peninsula wines we would be served this evening. Drinking champagne or sparkling wine with hors d’oeuvres has become one of my key lifestyle components, so this course was right up my alley.
A New Brunswick oyster stew with organic Sapicon potatoes and braised shallots was more of a cream veloute than a stew, but who could complain while eating this incredibly fragrant and tasty broth studded with oysters gently cooked to perfection. A simple dish but so well executed that it was divine and would get my nod as the dish of the evening. Served with a Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Reisling from Vinemount Ridge that I found surprisingly sweet but not an unpleasant pairing nonetheless.
For the main course, I opt for the pork duo, a roasted loin and a belly confit served with smoky beans and minute leeks. The loin is perfect, juicy with a generous portion of fat insulating fat left on the cut. The confit has the dense and comfortable flavor of salt and fat as well as a nicely crisp exterior. The sweetness of the beans complements both nicely and the barely cooked leeks providing a snap of freshness. I can’t help but compare this dish to the suckling pig duo I ate at Jolifou on my last visit and have to admit that Kennedy’s version is markedly more impressive. Served with a 2005 Le Clos Jordanne, Village Reserve Pinot Noir, a wine which has received a lot of press over the course of the past year. I liked the wine but am still not convinced I would pay upwards of $50 for a Canadian pinot noir.
The cheese plate may have been the low point of the meal (though in all fairness it is just because everything else was fantastic). It included Thunder Oak gouda, a 5 year old cheddar and Back 40, Highland blue, a raw milk cheese from the Ottawa valley, as well as Tosano, a sheep’s milk cheese. Heavy on the cow’s milk and hard pressed types, even though there are distinctions the plate does not offer a lot of variety and the offerings are a little too cold. We finished the plate so nobody is complaining too loudly. Served with a Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Reisling from Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Dessert, an a la minute sour cherry crepe served with a dollop of black walnut and maple ice cream, exemplified what I see as Chef Kennedy’s approach to food. Taking something classic that is no longer perceived as a sexy dish and bringing it to life with a deft choice of ingredients and technical skills. Served with a 2004 Pillitteri Estates icewine made from Cabernet Franc, it was delicious and a not-too heavy ending to a fine meal.
How to best describe this meal? It was the best meal I have eaten so far this year. The JJ compared it to Chez Panisse and I think she got it bang on. Relatively simple conceptually, with an accent on the top fresh ingredients and flawless execution. I was very impressed by Chef Kennedy who also took the time to visit every table and was quite charming with his winning smile and soft-spoken enthusiasm. A return visit to the wine bar (or another restaurant in the Jamie Kennedy empire — he even bottles his own Ontario spring water) is in the offing. Finally, a Kennedy nobody could want to shoot.
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I had the pleasure of dining at Jolifou and meeting the chef during his Chili dinner and what a treat! It is easy to see and taste the passion he has and to understand why it’s on the top of your list! I have already been recommending it to my friends who are coming to Montreal for a conference this fall and can’t wait to dine there again.
Thanks for the mouthwatering description of the meal I was unable to attend because of travel plan. Perhaps I will find other dining recommendations here; I’m so glad I found this blog!