DINNER January 28, 2008

Every once in a while you hear about a restaurant and you really want it to be good. Montreal could really use a restaurant that serves a top hamburger, so when news broke that venerable steakhouse Moishe’s was opening a high end burger joint, I crossed my fingers that everything would work out.

Looking nothing like your traditional burger joint, M:brgr is a modern looking space dominated by a massive bar with lots of wood, glass and old photos of cityscapes screened onto the walls. The restaurant serves up high-end versions of diner classics such as hamburgers, fries, milkshakes and hotdogs. There are a few hamburgers on offer including a “AAA” Beef burger, a Kobe burger, an organic beef burger, a tuna burger and a plate of sliders. A wide selection of toppings, including all the classics, as well as oddities such as asparagus, a fried egg or black truffle shavings, can be added to the burgers. Underscoring that it is a “burger bar” the restaurant also has a large selection of bottled beer, wine by the glass and bubbly on ice, although the selection of beer on tap consists only of Boreale products.

I opt for the “AAA” beef burger with cheddar not wanting any exotic topping to interfere with my appreciation of the burger. A little investigation reveals that it is “mostly” chuck, ground and mixed on the premises and cooked on a gas grill. The burgers are cooked  medium-well which I understood as being non-negotiable, although I doubt well-done would be a problem. The patty was nicely seasoned and cooked evenly to the  advertised doneness with a nice crisp exterior and a moist  interior. The fresh onion  and tomato were crisp and the pickle crunchy. So far , so good.  If I had a complaint it would be about the bun: an essential component of the hamburger that is often overlooked in our focus on the perfect patty. This one had been toasted well, which is to say not so much that it was hard or brittle and not too little that it was cold and doughy, but the underlying product was a very ordinary kaiser roll that varied little from the type that gets bought in packs of 8 at your local Metro. A bit of a mood killer but I still rank the M:brgr hamburger as one of the better burgers I have had in Montreal (let’s face it, this is not exactly like playing against the varsity team).

The sweet potato fries were solid and  the  fries were alright, although at $7 to have them tossed in a little truffle oil they are probably not an investment that will be repeated. We finished off with the chocolate covered peanut butter and jelly sandwich, which turned out to be a triangular piece of peanut butter fudge topped with strawberry jelly and chocolate and served with a shooter of milk. A little too sweet for my tastes but ultimately satisfying in a piggy way.

Service was exceedingly slow (we waited half an hour for our hamburgers in a still mostly empty restaurant) and not very professional, but it was service with a smile and effort nonetheless. Our one complaint was that the waitress was really pushing to sell the extras, more drinks etc… to a degree that was almost annoying. And you have to watch what you order at M:brgr unless you want your bill for a burger and fries to match your monthly car payment. Everything on this menu is expensive, from the most ordinary of burgers with fries starting at $12.75 to everyday bottled beer at $7 a pop. If you want to try any of the fancy menu items the bill starts to go up dramatically.  Our bill for two burgers, sweet potato fries, truffle fries, a beer, a cider, a shared dessert and two coffees came to $76 with tip and I thought our order was fairly spartan.

Best burger in Montreal? Debatable, but at least M:brgr has a seat at the table. Overpriced? I would say yes. Will I be back? Most certainly, at the very least to try that Kobe burger.

Cost with tip: $76

M:brgr
2025 Drummond
514.906.2747

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