BREAKFAST APRIL 28, 2007

I figure most people my age have a breakfast place; the place they usually go when they roll out of bed on a Saturday or Sunday morning, with or without friends, for something a little better to eat than they get throughout the week. I’ve been in a transitional phase for a while–without a breakfast place of my own. Oh, I’ve been through a few of them since I came to Montreal. Living in the McGill Ghetto for so long, I still have a strong attachment to Place Milton, my first Montreal breakfast place. Despite serving a better (but unexceptional) breakfast, Place Milton was supplanted by McGill Pizza at some point, primarily because I lived across the street. Which leads us to an interesting point about the breakfast place. Even for a food snob, a breakfast place is less about the food and more about convenience. Still, you would ideally like to get  a healthy dose of both.

Sure, there are a few places that can serve a good breakfast. At various times I have been impressed by Le Petit Pistou, Olive & Gourmnando, Green Café and even Café Melies. My favorite place to eat breakfast in Montreal is actually by the golf course in Rosemere and goes by the improbable name of Le Petit Cochon Santé. But none of these places is convenient enough to be the breakfast place.

At first glance Spice Safar, beside the Jean-Talon market, does not look like a breakfast place. The inside looks like a nightclub with TVs on the wall streaming bizarre shorts, it has a corner to sell CDs, clothes and other merchandise, the covered terrace looks like a Turkish pillow fight and the ambient techno plays 24-7.

The brunch menu (Spice Safar doesn’t open until 9 a.m.) features a selection of sweet and savoury dishes featuring exotic ingredients. I am a bit of a ham and eggs man at breakfast time and have been concentrating on the savoury bits. This morning I had a maple glazed ham, Japanese pear, cheese and almond omelette. Like all of Spice Safar’s savoury brunch offerings, it came with roasted baby tomatoes, a tangle of aragula with avocado and mango, a zuchini and onion rösti and whole wheat brioche toast. The omelette wasn’t a home run as the blend of pungent cheese overpowered the other flavours but it was still pretty good and I have had enough meals here to know they usually do much better.  The JJ had the Spice Safar version of eggs benedict which are perfectly poached and served with smoked salmon on brioche with little bowls of fresh cut herbs and a blend of crushed spice on the side.

On the way out I bagged a chocolate hazelnut danish and a mini 3-chocolate loaf for the road. All the bread and pastries are made on site with organic ingredients. My only regret about Spice Safar is that it is bound to become popular. When I can’t get a table anymore I may have to look for a new breakfast place.

Spice Safar (Jean-Talon Market)
77 Shamrock Ave.

Cost with tip: $40

Rating: Have to give at least three stars as I go every weekend.

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